When I told friends and family I was heading to Genoa this spring, the response was… silence. One Italian dad at the school gates muttered something about an aquarium, but that was it. Most people treat Genoa as a stopover on the way to the Italian Riviera—Portofino and the Cinque Terre just a train ride away—but I’d impulsively booked five nights in the city centre after stumbling on a Subreddit comment likening it to Marseille, my family’s favorite recent holiday. I worried I’d made a mistake.
Turns out, I hadn’t. Genoa is all charm and contradictions: medieval lanes and Baroque palaces, salty focaccia and velvety gelato, hilltop jasmine gardens and gritty port views. It has all the culture and cuisine of Italy’s headline cities, but without the crowds. And yes—the Marseille comparison holds. Both cities hum with color, hills, street life, and a carb-fueled joy that’s hard to resist.
History Written on Every Wall
Several centuries ago, Genoa was one of the world’s richest cities, a fact still visible in its colonnaded boulevards and Renaissance grandeur. Along Via Garibaldi, baroque palazzos drip with gilded excess, while elsewhere, the city wears its faded glory with style—think frescoes above phone shops, Madonna shrines beside keychain stands, and a Disney cruise liner looming like a neon backdrop. Trompe-l’oeil murals give buildings a surreal, dreamlike edge. And then there are the carruggi, the medieval alleys of the old town—so narrow you can touch both sides with outstretched arms, so shadowed that gelato feels mandatory.
A City Best Eaten Standing Up
Food in Genoa is handheld, casual, and irresistible. Start with its signature: whisper-thin focaccia, slicked with olive oil and sold from tiny bakeries where staff will happily fuss over your children while queues snake outside. Then there’s pesto alla Genovese—so vibrant it makes anything from a jar taste like an insult. At Pastificio Artigianale di Canneto, we ordered pesto, pansotti in walnut sauce, and pumpkin-orange tortelli, and returned the next day for more.
Gelato is another essential. Cremeria Buonafede’s pànera—a silky, coffee-kissed cloud halfway between semifreddo and whipped cream—is a revelation, while Profumo di Rosa’s rose and strawberry scoops feel like poetry.
Culture and Chaos, Side by Side
Between meals, we roamed the Palazzo Rosso’s galleries, wandered Villetta di Negro’s park with its tumbling waterfall, and hopped funiculars to leafy hilltop neighborhoods. One highlight was the Art Nouveau lift to Spianata Castelletto, where the scent of jasmine filled the air and the Mediterranean stretched glittering below.
And then there’s Boccadasse. Just 20 minutes from Piazza De Ferrari, this former fishing village delivers pebble beaches, pastel houses, calamari lunches, and chilled glasses of Vermentino by the sea. Lovely, yes—but for me, the chaotic hum of central Genoa always called me back.
Where to Stay
Palazzo Durazzo – A 17th-century palazzo dripping with frescoes, antiques, and theatrical flourishes. Book the Il Doge suite for sea views and a hot tub on the mezzanine.
Capitolo Riviera – In laid-back Nervi, this sleek, eco-conscious retreat pairs sustainable wood and stone with greenery and sea views. Aperitivo by the pool is non-negotiable.
Where to Eat
Cremeria Buonafede – Open since 1913, and still the reigning champion of pànera. Don’t skip the maritozzo—a brioche stuffed with cream.
Öosteria – Playful plates, homemade pasta, and unexpected flavor twists, all served with a relaxed vibe.
The Cook – Michelin-starred Ligurian classics in a frescoed dining room—romantic, refined, unforgettable.
Pastificio Artigianale di Canneto – Fast, fresh, and unmissable pasta. Their walnut sauce alone is worth the flight.
Where to Shop
Via Garibaldi 12 – Contemporary homewares staged inside a 16th-century palazzo. Pure eye candy.
Pietro Romanengo – A Wes Anderson-esque confectionery of candied fruit, pastel fondants, and rose creams.
TUG – Sustainable fashion, affordable designer vintage, and upcycled originals—ideal for treasure hunting.
The Verdict
Genoa is no longer just a gateway to the Riviera—it’s a destination in its own right. Equal parts elegant and gritty, chaotic and captivating, this city rewards anyone willing to stay put.
